Table Talk: Everybody wins: Community Supported Agriculture keeps farms alive

By CLAIRE HOPLEY

Published on April 20, 2007

When Brookfield Farm started operating as a CSA, on Hulst Road in Amherst in 1986, it was the first such farm in our area, and only the third in the nation. The acronym CSA stands for Community Supported Agriculture, and it characterizes farms that sell shares to members, who then receive the farm produce throughout the growing season.

Brookfield Farm now has 500 members, and since some share their memberships, farmer Dan Kaplan estimates that probably 650 households are participating.

"We're sold out and we have a long waiting list," he said. "This points to the need for these farms."

And the farms need people as well. "It's the only way farming in this area is going to exist," Kaplan said. "CSAs are a way of getting people to spend some of their food dollars in local farms and keep them in business."

Kaplan's wish for more CSAs has already come true. The Food Bank Farm in Hadley was founded 15 years ago, and with 670 members, farmer Michael Doctor estimates that as many as 1,200 people share in the crops. In addition, the farm donates 40 to 50 percent of its produce to the Food Bank of Western Massachusetts. From there makes its way to clients ranging from individuals to soup kitchens, summer programs, and brown-bag programs.

Like Brookfield, the Food Bank Farm can serve no more members this year, though each year some people on their waiting lists get lucky. "Less than 10 percent of members gave up their spot last year, which is odd considering how transient this area is," Doctor said. "It shows that when people get shares they really enjoy having them."

Riverland Farm

Fortunately for anyone who wants to join a CSA this year, there are other opportunities in the area. Riverland Farm in Sunderland is one such. "We sell memberships at the beginning of the season, then members get around 25 weeks of produce," said Riverland's Megan Arquin. "On pickup days we give members a bag and they take veggies of their choice - salad greens, cooking greens, and hard veggies like squash, plus other things such as peppers by the count."

Riverland also has pick-your-own crops as part of the share, typically crops like beans, peas, strawberries, herbs, flowers, and cherry tomatoes.

Riverland charges members on a sliding scale of $380-$480 per year for a full membership, and $280-$380 for a half membership that would provide enough veggies for a small household of a couple of people. Arquin explains that this pricing policy makes it possible for people to join regardless of family income.

"We try to encourage people to pay somewhere in the middle of the scale if they can," she said.

The farm is accepting membership requests now at 687-5781.

Simple Gifts

Jeremy Barker-Plotkin of Simple Gifts on Pine Street in North Amherst has a similar sliding scale. The full share is $400-$500, with a half share at $250-$350. Simple Gifts began last year on land that was saved from development by the North Amherst Community Farm, using funds from an array of public and private sources.

After seven years farming in Belchertown, Barker-Plotkin is enthusiastic about the new opportunity in Amherst. All the crops will be organic, and he will also be working on reconditioning fields that have been conventionally farmed so that by next year they, too, will meet organic standards.

As at Riverland, Simple Gifts members will get a bag to fill with veggies of their choice plus a chance to pick their own flowers, herbs, and other crops. For more information on the farm and a membership application, check www.simplegiftsfarmcsa.com or call 323-9608.

This combination of a supply of already picked and washed crops with pick-your-own supplements is typical of CSAs, as is the focus on organic foods. Since CSAs typically grow dozens of varieties of vegetables, "This means that we have to rotate crops," Michael Doctor said, "so we cannot use herbicides because an herbicide that works for one crop might damage whatever comes into that spot later."

Another typical feature of CSAs is fixed pick-up days. Pick-ups start in June - not so much at first - then as harvests progress, members receive more and more and a greater variety. Even in late fall there are crops such as potatoes, rutabagas, carrots, and winter squash. In this way CSAs offer their members produce for close to half the year and sometimes longer.

While smaller farms cannot grow such a wide array of crops, some are adopting aspects of the CSA model, because it helps assure an income. Currently two smaller Amherst farms are adapting the model to their needs.

Smaller CSAs

At Small Ones Farm on Bay Road in Amherst, Robert and Sally Fitz are starting a fruit CSA. "We have apples, peaches, Asian pears, regular pears, sometimes blueberries, and a few plums," said Robert Fitz. "We're going to start out small. I'm hoping for just 25 members at first. Pick-ups will start in August and run through October.

"Everyone will get a fruit box once a week, plus in pick-your-own season they'll get a half-bushel bag to pick their own," Fitz said.

The cost for membership is $150, and Fitz estimates that during the harvest, members will get 125 pounds of fruit. For more information, call Small Ones Farm at 253-9778.

The other newcomer to the scene is Swartz Family Farms on Meadow Street in Amherst. "We are not actually a CSA but we are very CSA-ish," said Sarah Swartz. By this she means that the farm has members who come to the farm on a designated day for their supplies of greens and other crops. Since all the farm's crops are grown hydroponically in water in a sheltered environment, they are organic like CSA produce.

Unlike a CSA, however, there is no membership fee. "To become a member you just put your name on our email list at swartzfamilyfarms@aol.com," Swartz explained. "On Monday you get an email that tells you what's happening on the farm and what's available. You say what you want and which of the pick-up days you want to pick it up on, and that's it."

Choices include arugula, watercress, baby Boston lettuce, mature lettuce, bok choy, collards, basil, lemon balm and a mesclun that includes 12 kinds of lettuce. In summer the farm will have crops such as corn, tomatoes and other produce from local farms, for sale.

For information, the Swartz Family Farm telephone number is (413) 548-8979.

Perhaps the most significant difference at this farm is that since the crops are grown indoors, there is no down season; members can be eating local basil or lettuce in the depths of winter. Indeed, all CSAs have characteristics that set them apart.

Differences among CSAs

Brookfield Farm, for instance, farms biodynamically. Its mission statement reads: "To create and support responsible agriculture by furthering all aspects of sustainable, biodynamic, organic and other environmental techniques. To support and practice the promotion of techniques which protect, heal and transform the land and the environment and produce healthy, nutritious food for human beings and animals for generations to come."

"We want a self-sustaining farm system that doesn't depend on buying inputs from outside but has its own integrity," Kaplan said. "One example of this is we keep cows. We don't have the facilities to milk them, but they graze our pasture and their manure helps us improve the land."

Barker-Plotkin also values the contribution of animals. Part of the land on Pine Street is leased to another farmer who raises chickens, goats and other creatures. Barker-Plotkin is also devoted to energy efficiency.

"We have a grant to develop a way of heating a greenhouse with fryolater oil - that's oil that restaurants have used for frying. They have to dispose of it from time to time, so we will pick it up from them and reuse it."

Riverland has also used grant money to provide vegetables to seniors, and the Food Bank farm has a major commitment to enhancing the offerings the Food Bank's usual food offerings with fresh, organic crops.

Of course, what all CSAs offer is food that is delicious because it hasn't been trucked thousands of miles to a supermarket. Michael Doctor points out that the huge enterprises that produce mega- amounts of crops for dispatching long distances grow varieties based only on the their ability to survive the journey. In contrast, taste is his goal. "We can choose a melon variety that has a thin skin so it won't ship," he said, "but will taste absolutely delicious." That goes for other crops too.

If you spend a chunk of the summer out of the area or simply feel you could not use all the produce a CSA would give you, you can still buy CSA food. Barker-Plotkin is a familiar face in the Amherst Farmers' Market, and he'll be back this year with Simple Gifts' crops. Brookfield Farms has a store at the farm that sells products from many local farmers. Riverland Farms has a farm stand, and if you want a CSA-like involvement you can pay $90 at the beginning of the season and get $100 farmstand credit to use at your convenience in summer and fall.

Few local crops are yet available, though those with gardens will be seeing their chives and mint now, and patrons of Swartz Family Farms can enjoy supplies of tender leafy things. To savor these and future spring greens, here are three simple recipes.

GREEK ARUGULA AND CARROT SALAD

Arugula, traditionally known as rocket in English, is a sharp, refreshing green that's a springtime favorite in Italy and Greece. This salad is the traditional salad served in Greek restaurants when arugula arrives in March.

about 4-6 cups washed arugula

1-1/2 cups shredded carrots

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 to 2 teaspoons drained capers

about 1 dozen Kalamata olives

1 slice of red onion separated into circles

Put the arugula and about one-third of the carrots in the salad bowl. Whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice and Dijon mustard, Pour this over the arugula and carrots and toss. Mound the remaining carrots in the center and scatter the capers and olives on them. Finally, arrange the onion circles on top.

CHICKPEAS AND SPINACH WITH PASTA

In this recipe the cooking time is given for tender greens like spinach or Swiss chard. If you use a tougher green, like kale or collards, you will need to increase the cooking time. Serves 2

2 cups penne, farfalle or other small pasta shapes

2 tablespoons olive oil

4-6 cloves garlic, minced

1 pound spinach, washed and coarse stems removed

1 teaspoon oregano

salt and pepper to taste

pinch red pepper flakes

1 can chickpeas, drained

1 tablespoon snipped chives

2 tablespoons toasted pine nuts (optional)

Cook the pasta in plenty of boiling salted water, timing it as directed on the package. Meanwhile, soften the garlic in the olive oil over low heat for a minute, then add the spinach and cook over medium heat until completely wilted - about 4-5 minutes.

Add 1/2 cup water, oregano, salt and pepper to taste, and bring to simmering point, then add the chickpeas, sprinkling them with the red pepper flakes. Cover and simmer another 3-4 minutes until the chickpeas are heated through.

Toss with the cooked pasta and tip into a serving dish. Sprinkle with chopped chives and the toasted pine -nuts if you are using them. (To toast pine nuts, saute them in a dry frying pan over moderate heat until fragrant and golden, or put them in a single layer in a small dish and microwave them for about 1 minute or until they are done.)

HAM, CREAM CHEESE AND CHIVE SQUARES

Here's a tasty appetizer using chives - one of the first herbs to reappear in spring. It comes from Mary Ellen Warchol, who, along with her husband, John, grows many varieties of herbs in South Deerfield.

8 ounces of cream cheese at room temperature

2/3 tablespoons heavy cream

1/4 cup snipped fresh chives

1 pound of boiled ham, sliced fairly thick

Mix the cream cheese, working in the cream so that it becomes a nice spreading consistency. Add the freshly snipped chives. On a piece of aluminum foil, place one slice of ham. Spread about 2 tablespoons of cream cheese mixture over the ham. Top with another slice. Repeat process until you have used 6 slices of ham.

Wrap the prepared ham and cheese in the foil and place in the freezer. One-half hour before serving, remove package from freezer. While still somewhat frozen, slice the ham into 1-inch squares. Place a toothpick through the middle of each square and arrange on a serving dish that has been lined with fresh greens.